BIG BIRD DAY

at Bandhavgarh National Park

Sunday, 13^th February, 2011

(My team and I arrived in Bandhavgarh one day early to do a reccee in this National Park which was new to all of us. This is what happened along with the bird count on Big Bird Day)

Crested Serpent Eagle

The day, that is Big Bird Day, started early at 5am with all excitement, hope, and a lot of tittering – no tits of course, too early – just jabber, Jabber, jabber!

Like: “Got the glasses?”

Fumble, fumble… “Yeah, I’ve found six – we’ll all have coffee.”

Scream, “Oh no! I mean the binocs idiot !”

Dirty look. “Please watch your exit pupil diameter.”

Splutter. “Don’t forget the monopod for my camera,” bellow from the toilet.

Silence followed by jumbled mumbles rising to a crescendo.

Etc, etc, for fifteen minutes or may be more…

Time flew.

“Do you think we’ll see more tigers today?”

Reprimand. “Today is Big Bird Day! Think of nothing else… but our Official List…”

One hopeful… “Ours will be the longest !”

One not so hopeful, “Ozzie Bozzie will be there.”

Puzzled “Who’s Ozzie Bozzie?”

Team Leader’s second-in-command, “Why Dr Oswal of course ! He’s really good. Will get a second prize at least. Great team leader.”

Someone hurt and jealous… “O.K. Everyone, let’s go ! The jeep has come; exactly 6:30 !”

Jungle Babblers, Crow Pheasant, Indian Roller – one, only one on bare branch. Plum-headed Parakeets, Jungle Crow… no, Large-Billed Crow… someone looked up the book.

“Hey, look up there. Kites or vultures?”

Chorus, “Vultures, vultures, vultures !”

Praduman, 9 years old, youngest team member, “My Daddy told me vultures are rare now and…”

…excitement from the LHS, “Wow, then Dr Oswal will not have vultures on his list !”

Glee, “You bet !”

“Call me a Red-Vented Bulbul !”

Shocked Birder, “Why?”

Hoarse whisper, “There’s a tiger coming down the path straight towards us !”

Team Leader swinging around with lens zooming, “Shots taken. Now they’ll have to believe this !”

Mixed feelings. Mixed emotions. Mixed birding !

On safer ground ! Sigh of relief, “I am a Red-Vented Bulbul !”

“Look there, a Woolly-Necked Stork !” And one for Nikhil, a Black Stork.

Black Stork

“A tigress and two nearly full grown cubs. More photos or else no one will believe… US !”

5:30 PM. FINAL SCORE:

Thirty three different species.

NINE TIGERS !

Where is our PRIZE !?

Love, have lots of fun, and I repeat, as Nik says, “May you always hear the whisper of wings and the ROAR OF TIGERS !!!”

Maurice Ryder

Sent from BlackBerry® on Airtel

COMMENTS BY READERS

Monday 14^th Feb., 2011 Time: 10:03 PM

The best report I ever read. You are a real writer. Thanks for making us see the preparations for birding.

With best wishes and hope to see you sometime.

Rita

California, U.S.A.

Tuesday 15^th Feb., 2011 Time: 1:25 PM

Lovely report…a very different and hilarious one.

Regards,

Nilanjana Sengupta

Tuesday 15^th Feb., 2011 Time: 11:32 PM

MEANIE, we missed out on all the fun but thanks for sharing !

Purobi Menon

Noida

Wednesday 16^th Feb., 2011 Time: 10:43 AM

Dear Maurice,

J J J Well that’s how my face was all the while that I was reading your e-mail.

That was indeed a very interesting, fun way to put things, can only imagine, what fun and excitement must be around you guys.

Hope to meet you soon, some day…

Cheers & take care…

Anshula Chaturvedi

Explore. Discover. Experience

Wednesday 16^th Feb., 2011 Time: 11:51AM

Dear Dr Ryder,

I love this piece.

Great job.

Warm regards,

Shariq

Ghaziabad

Wednesday 16^th Feb., 2011 Time: 5:14 PM

Excellent !! Well written !! This seems like an excerpt. Expecting more of your write up on this encounter.

Please upload couple of pics on Facebook. For smooth and quick uploads, please reduce the size of the pic and then upload.

Best Regards,

Sritama Biswas

Bangalore

Friday 18^th Feb., 2011 Time: 7:17 AM

Thanks Dr Ryder. It’s a lovely Pic. Rahul will be ecstatic.

Monica

Noida

Friday 18^th Feb., 2011 Time: 3:59 PM

Sounds like you had another great adventure & I am looking forward to the photos.

John

England

Saturday 19^th Feb., 2011 Time: 9:57 PM

Sounds like a marvelous day !! You must have the right touch – I went to tiger reserves 2 different times and saw not even one tiger !! Good for you !!

We miss our friends in India and hope to see you sometime soon. In the meantime, please let us hear more from you !!

Love,

Sister Tanner

Utah, U.S.A.

THE BANDHAVGARH DIARY

In Tigerland

THE BANDHAVGARH DIARY

THE WHISPER OF WINGS AND THE ROAR OF TIGERS

10^th February, to 14^th February, 2011.

BIG BIRD DAY, Sunday 13^th February, 2011

On Thursday, 10 February 2011 3:27 PM, Maurice Ryder wrote to Bikram Grewal:

Re: Official Birding List

Dear Bikram,

Please send immediately the birding list by e-mail for our reference for Big Bird Day on the 13th Feb., 2011.

We will be birding at the Kanha National Park* in M.P., where we shall be camping on 12th, 13th & 14th Feb., 2011.

And all the best for BBD.

Sincerely,

Maurice Ryder

Sent from BlackBerry® on Airtel

On Thursday, 10 February 2011 3:45 PM, Bikram Grewal’s reply to Maurice Ryder;

Here it is Maurice, do a bird count in Kanha* and send me the details
and I will announce it at dinner.
Best of luck
Bikram Grewal

On Thursday, 10 February 2011 8:15 PM, Maurice Ryder wrote to Bikram Grewal

*Re: Changed venue from Kanha NP to Bandhavgarh NP on BBD

Dear Bikram,

The Collector/District magistrate , host to my team, has advised to do Bandhavgarh on the 13th, BBD due to good water-bodies there. The Collector is also in my team and will 'count' with us on the 13th.

Thank you very much for the 'Official List' so promptly sent to us.
Sincerely,
Maurice Ryder.

Sent from BlackBerry® on Airtel

On Thursday, 10 February 2011 6:08 PM, Maurice Ryder wrote to the Collector

RE: 13^th Feb, 2011, Big Bird Day

To,

Collector/Distt Magistrate.

Re: COUNTING on Big Birding Day at Bandhavgarh, M.P.
I am extremely glad and honoured to know that you will be part of my birding team on the 13th inst., at Bandhavgarh, National Park, Madhya Pradesh.
We plan to be positioned at a suitable starting point, (which we shall do a reccee for on Sat) and begin counting at sunrise, concluding the 'count' by sundown.
I thank you very much for all the arrangements you have made for us to cover Bandhavgarh on this BBD; it would not have been possible without your help.
All are welcome to join and the accent is on having fun. Looking forward to seeing you tomorrow morning, where from thence we shall proceed to the Park.
Sincerely,

Maurice Ryder.

On Thursday, 10 February 2011, 8:16 PM, Maurice Ryder wrote to Nikhil Devasar

Re: BBD Team at Bandhavgarh on the 13^th.

Dear Nikhil,

My team will be in Bandhavgarh on the 12th Sat

to do a reccee for the 13th, BBD, to plan our movements for that day.
The Collector/Distt Magistrate is being host to my team and is birding with us as a team member too.
We shall miss the sharing and the Dinner Sunday evening and so many wonderful birder friends.
Best Wishes to all of you.
Sincerely,
Maurice Ryder.

Sent from BlackBerry® on Airtel

On Friday, 11 February 2011 9:29 AM, Nikhil Devasar includes Maurice Ryder’s Team

Hope we are now all ready with the Big Bird Day just a day away. Good
news is that we have still a few new teams.
I can see Bikram’s work increasing as the teams are building up, but
then as Bikram says "I live to serve" :-), so to Bikram
New teams: Bandhavgarh - Maurice Ryder (mauricewryder@yahoo.co.in), along with
the Collector/Distt Magistrate, Manisha and others.

On Saturday, Feb 12, 2011 at 12:39 PM, Maurice Ryder wrote to Shariq Bijli:

Re: In Bandhavgarh NP

Dear Shariq.
I have just arrived at Bandhavgarh in time to do a reccee for tomorrow's Big Bird Day where I shall be doing an official bird count.
The Collector/Distt Magistrate is host to my team.
Very excited and hoping to camera-shoot a tiger too!
Sincerely,
Maurice Ryder.
Sent from BlackBerry® on Airtel

On Saturday, Feb 12, 2011 at 2: 02 PM Shariq Bijli’s reply to Maurice Ryder:

Re: In Bandhavgarh NP
Hello Dr. Ryder,

Glad to hear from you and that also from Bandavgarh. I wish you the very best while doing your work there.

I'm sure you'll get some great shots. It would be great if you see the striped big cats. Anyway, Bandavgarh is one of the best places to see the tiger.

Please keep me informed regarding your findings regarding the birds and other animals at Bandavgarh when you return to Noida.

Warmest personal regards

Shariq

On Saturday, Feb 12, 2011 at 2:22 PM, Maurice Ryder wrote to Shariq Bijli:

Re: Tiger’s sighted !

Guess what? Two tigers spotted. Photos taken. MR.
Sent from BlackBerry® on Airtel

On Saturday, Feb 12, 2011 at 3:28 PM, Shariq Bijli’s reply to Maurice Ryder;

Re: Tiger’s sighted !

That's fantastic. Cheers for the Big Cats.

Shariq Bijli wrote to Maurice Ryder:

Dear Dr. Ryder,

I can only imagine how exciting and heart pumping it must have been for you and others to see not one but two tigers. Wow!

Can't wait to see those pix when you get back.

Let’s hope and pray that these majestic creatures will become a bit more easier to sight in the future. That's a wish and a prayer which the Almighty will hopefully grant for the benefit of all mankind and other living beings. Otherwise, we'll just have memories of this majestic cat in the form of photographs and past sightings. How tragic would that be!

Thanks for sharing the news. It's so exciting.

Warm regards,

Shariq

On Sat, Feb 12, 2011 at 7:19 PM, Maurice Ryder wrote to Shariq Bijli:

Re: Got Her !

Shariq...you won't believe it!
The tigress came out of the forest straight to us in the jeep. She wanted to cross the road. She actually stopped and stared at us for a few seconds. We kept shooting! Then she actually...

Wait till I get back and tell you what happened next...! And show you the photos to prove it
Maurice Ryder.

Sent from BlackBerry® on Airtel

On Sat, Feb 12, 2011 at 9:03 PM, Maurice Ryder wrote to Delhi Birders:

Re: Reccee for BBD completed. Tiger sighted as bonus!

Bandhavgarh NP:
We start from FRH at 6am sharp. Will do Chakradhara Meadows, Palpur Talab, Mahaman Dam, Elephant Camp, Charger Point, Chorbahra, Sita Mandap...
And guess what happened at 5.55 pm today ?!
The tigress, 'Kankati' alias Baghrani walked out of the forest and straight towards our jeep...She wanted to cross the road to the stream on the other side. She stopped not seven feet from us! She stared at us for a few seconds. We were clicking away like mad !
And guess what happened next? Wait till I get back and post the pics. Manisha and the DM have good pictures too.
Maurice Ryder (team leader)
Sent from BlackBerry® on Airtel

THE DARLING OF BANDHAVGARH

Long, long ago – very long ago – I saw a tiger at close quarters from a machaan. He was a gentleman. But that is another story.

Today, after a gap of nearly fifty years, I met up with tigers in the wild. They were still the same. All of them gentleman and ladies.

The tiger is a gentleman. So said Billy Arjun Singh, Jim Corbett, F. W. Champion, Fateh Singh Rathore, so says Valmik Thapar, and so do I today.

We had barely arrived at Bandhavgarh on the 12^th morning of February, when the Chief Conservator of Forests, came to the Bandhavgarh FRH to welcome us.

“Just spotted two fairly grown tiger cubs within the fencing along the main road,” he mentioned.

“Still there?” we asked, excited.

“Ought to be,” he replied, almost certain.

With a little persuasion we jumped into his vehicle, heading for the spot along the new fencing.

Without difficulty we parked hard by the road but could not spot the cubs. It took us a good ten minutes of scrutinizing to see the tigers – both sleeping perfectly camouflaged just 12 feet away from us. Luck and excitement aside, it was the perfect blending of cat-stripes with grass, lantana bushes and foliage which confounded us. Five people searching for a tiger just a few feet away and failing to notice the sleeping animals.

Soon enough they were disturbed and as they rose, we caught a glimpse of the back of one of the cubs – it vanished a few seconds later.

The pictures I took show the remarkable natural camouflage the tiger benefits by in the Indian jungle.

Kan-kati (the one with the cut ear), was the first to surprise us. She just walked out on us – out of the jungle that is ! Our expert driver and tracker, spotted a movement in the jungle to our right and stopped the vehicle.

“Tiger!” he said.

Pointing deep into the forest, on a sparse jungle track joining our road, we barely glimpsed the tigress. It was 5:55pm. The auto-flash popped up in the dusk, demonstrating the red-eye effect as the tigress noticed the jeep and looked at us.

I expected her to change directions and head left or right into the forest to avoid us, but she strode straight towards us. No hesitation, just straight in our direction.

The pics I have taken show how the tigress crossed our path just seven feet from us. We were all ‘clicking’ furiously when she stopped, gave us a cool calculated look which kept us spell-bound for eternity, and then continued her pace. It was Kan-Kati!

Crossing the road she sprayed the first tree on her left, marking her scent, as she had claimed this territory just two months ago.

We re-christened her Baghrani, the Darling of Bandhavgarh.

Kan-Kati seemed a little rude and ordinary for such a magnificent beast with such grandeur and lady-like demeanor.

Baghrani then walked deep into the darkening on the other side. But no; she suddenly turned and headed back to the stream she had just crossed. We were overwhelmed by the second opportunity she was giving us to watch and photograph her. She did more than that…!

After drinking, quenching her thirst at the stream, she chose a spot of vantage for us. Sat down rolled on her back, sat up again, yawned and added a few more antics to her bag of tricks – all for us!

All the while she knew we were there! We realized right there and then we were in the company of a compatible companion animal. Unbelievable, a tiger for a companion animal!

It will sound a little sentimental and foolish to say that I felt like running to her and caressing this amazing gentle giant. However, I could only come closest to this desire by admiring her from a distance with an ache in my heart.

The next day we added another six tigers to our ‘bag’, photo-bag that is, in Bandhavgarh. All gentleman tigers of course, and ladies without question.